Almost every fashion brand now says something green: “sustainable”, “conscious”, “eco”, “planet-friendly”. Some of those claims are backed by real evidence. Others are vague enough to mean nothing. This guide explains what the UK regulator has said about fashion claims, the warning signs to look for, and a simple checklist to use before you buy.
What the UK regulator has said
In September 2024 the Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) published a guide for fashion brands and retailers, based on its Green Claims Code. According to the CMA announcement on GOV.UK, the guide covers points such as:
- Giving clear, accurate and complete product information.
- Setting out the criteria for any “sustainable” or green collection, and not putting items in one unless they meet those criteria.
- Being clear and specific when using search filters or navigation tools for green products.
- Making clear when a claim covers only part of a product’s life cycle.
The CMA also wrote to 17 fashion brands (it did not name them) about concerns including broad terms such as “sustainable”, unclear claims about what a product is made from, and labelling items “recycled” in a way that suggests the whole product is recycled when it may not be. Earlier in 2024, ASOS, Boohoo and George at Asda signed undertakings to make only accurate and clear green claims.
As of that announcement, the CMA could not fine businesses directly for consumer law breaches and had to enforce through the courts. The Digital Markets, Competition and Consumers Act 2024 is designed to allow fines of up to 10% of worldwide turnover, so check current guidance for how that now works.
7 warning signs of greenwashing
1. Vague words with no detail
“Eco”, “green”, “conscious” and “sustainable” on their own do not tell you what is different about the product. Look for specifics: which fibre, what percentage, what standard.
2. A “sustainable collection” with no criteria
If a brand has a green range but never explains what a product must do to be included, you cannot judge it. The CMA guide specifically points to setting out the criteria.
3. “Recycled” with no percentage
A label saying “recycled” may refer to only part of the product. A percentage and the type of material (for example, recycled polyester) is more useful.
4. One good fact standing in for the whole product
Organic cotton cover is nice, but what about the dyes, the zips and where it was made? Claims about one stage of a product’s life do not tell you about the rest.
5. Logos that look official but are not
Some leaf or globe badges are the brand’s own design, not a third-party standard. A real certification names the scheme and can be checked. Our guide to what fashion certifications actually mean explains the main ones.
6. Talk about the future with no plan
“We are on a journey to net zero” is not a result. Look for dated targets, measured progress and published reports.
7. Very cheap and very new, every week
A brand that releases hundreds of new styles at low prices while promoting a small green range is selling volume first. Cheap clothes can be fine, but a green label does not cancel out overproduction. Working out cost per wear keeps the focus on how long you will actually use something.
A 6-question checklist before you buy
- What exactly is the claim? Is it specific, or just a mood word?
- Is there evidence on the page: a percentage, a named standard or a report?
- Does the claim cover the whole product or only one part?
- Can I verify the certification on the scheme’s own website?
- Will I wear it at least 30 times? If not, a green label is not the main issue.
- Could I buy it second-hand instead? Read our second-hand guide.
Examples: vague claim vs better claim
| Vague | More useful |
|---|---|
| “Eco-friendly t-shirt” | “100% organic cotton, GOTS certified (licence number shown)” |
| “Made with recycled materials” | “Body fabric 60% recycled polyester; trims not recycled” |
| “Sustainable collection” | “Items in this range meet these 3 criteria: …” |
| “Better for the planet” | “Dyed with a process that uses X less water, per this report” |
What you can do as a shopper
- Buy fewer, longer-lasting pieces and look after them: wash more sustainably, store well and mend early.
- Ask the brand. A short email asking which standard a claim refers to often shows how solid it is.
- Report misleading claims. Consumer groups and the CMA accept concerns; check GOV.UK for the current route.
- Follow the full plan in our complete sustainable wardrobe guide.
If you want brands that publish their certifications, start with our organic cotton basics round-up, and check any claim yourself using the steps above.
General information only, not legal advice. Regulation can change, so check GOV.UK for current rules.
Source
GOV.UK: Greenwashing: CMA issues tailored guide for fashion brands (published 18 September 2024)
